A Maldivian family

While the British developed Gan as a base for Royal Air Force, the people of the three southern most atolls revolted against the government of Mr Nasir. They formed a separate government and declared the ‘United Suvadheeb Republic’ in 1959. The British support for them was suspected by the government. The grievances of the people of these three atolls against the government were not entirely unjustified. For centuries, the people of the Huvadhoo, Fua Mulah and Addu Atolls sailed in their wooden vessels odi to Sri Lanka and India and exchanged goods.

They travelled independently to these countries without stopping over at Malé; hence there was no government control over these trade affairs. However, Mr Nasir introduced measures which were unfavourable to the three southern most atolls including the prohibition of direct sail to the neighbouring countries without clearing through Malé. The workers in Addu who could have enjoyed the benefits of direct payment from the British were also disappointed with the arrangement in which they were paid through the government in Malé. They believed that the government controlled the exchange rates to their disadvantage.

The separatist uprising was brought to an end by the government of the Maldives in 1963 in some atolls with brute force. However, the unease and hostility continued. The government of the Maldives negotiated with the British for a diplomatic solution. Maldives demanded more independence than the existing agreements provided for.

In 1960 an agreement was signed reducing the period of British stay in Addu to 30 years. The British finally agreed to give independence to the Maldives and an agreement was signed in 1965. This historic agreement was signed on 25 July 1965 in Sri Lanka. However, the British presence in Addu Atoll continued till 1976.

Maldives Sunset

A written constitution did not exist in Maldives till 1932 and the customs and traditions along with Islamic Shariah formed the Law. The sultans usually consulted a group of advisors or bodun who included his ministers and the Fandiyaaru or Chief Justice. The Islamic scholars usually exercised much influence in the government affairs but quite often they were replaced when the Kings were at odds with them.

The hereditary system continued to exist but in many occasions the helm of power shifted from one family to the other following internal uprisings and the demise of kings. A constitution was introduced in 1932 after the emergence of a new educated elite. The new constitution, which provided for a People’s Assembly of 47 members, did not survive long. It was literally torn apart by the public and the reigning Sultan Mohammed Shamsudheen 3rd was dethroned shortly thereafter in 1934. The Sultan was believed to have used exceeded his legal powers. A new constitution was formed in 1937.

In 1948 the existing agreement between the Maldives and the British were renewed.

In 1953 the Maldives changed from a monarchy to a Republic. Mr Mohammed Amin Didi was the first President of the Maldives. He was a popular politician who had won a referendum held to determine the type of government that the Maldives should have. However, the Republic was short-lived. After a mere eight months Amin Didi was overthrown and a Sultanate was formed once again. The people were outraged because of the prevailing food shortages and the total ban of tobacco by Amin Didi. The Second World War caused famine that continued even in the early 1950s. Against this backdrop it was quite easy to manipulate and mobilise the ignorant masses for political ends by Amin Didi’s rivals.

Since the failure of the First Republic, the Maldives was a Sultanate until 1968. The intervening period saw the rule of only one king. Sultan Mohammed Fareedh was to be the last monarch of the Maldives.

During the Second World War, British built a military base in Gan of Addu Atoll and Kelaa of Thiladhunmathi Atoll. They evacuated the bases soon after the war. However, British interest in the Maldives revived during the late 1950s. The British were successful to conclude an agreement with the Prime Minister Ibrahim Ali Didi for the lease of Gan in Addu for 100 years.

This agreement signed in 1956 provided Gan, located in the southern tip of the Maldives, as an airfield for the British. It also included the provision of a part of Hithadhoo in Addu Atoll as a radio communication centre for the British.

The agreement was heavily criticised in the Maldives, and led to the resignation of the Prime Minister. He was succeeded by Mr Ibrahim Nasir who sought to solve the problem regarded by the Maldivians as an issue endangering the territorial integrity and sovereignty of the Maldives. However, the government of Mr Nasir was to face more serious problems that threatened the integrity of the country.

The coconut tree

The abundance of cowry shells, coir rope and ambergris in Maldives attracted Portuguese interest in the country during the 16th century. Consequently the Portuguese launched attacks against Maldives. Their attempts were in vain until a better equipped and organised fleet attacked the capital Malé. In 1558 they seized control of the country, after defeating Ali 6th, the reigning Sultan. Since then, they administered Maldives from Goa in India but had their armed forces and a leader stationed in Maldives.

Muhammad Thakurufaanu, from the island of Utheemu in Thiladhunmathi Atoll, waged an effective resistance against the invaders. In 1573 after fierce guerrilla warfare Muhammad Thakurufaanu and his compatriots defeated the Portuguese invaders. Muhammad Thakurufaanu was offered the throne and remains a revered national hero.

The Portuguese did not allow the Maldivians to relax even after their 1573 debacle. The country had a restless time fighting off the colonial pursuits and had to strengthen its defence by building forts and acquiring more arms. Nevertheless there was a substantial time period before the country was captured by an invading force. Malabari pirates from the nearby south Indian coast finally succeeded in 1752 in seizing the Maldivan throne in the capital, Malé.

They abducted the Sultan and took him to their country and placed some soldiers to administer Maldives. Only four months later Maldives regained control under the leadership of Muleege Hassan Maniku or Dhon Bandaarain who belonged to a family from Huraa in Malé Atoll.

The British colonial ambitions in the Indian Ocean had their effects on Maldives. They recognised the strategic location of Maldives and the prospect of Maldives being under any other colonial power was unacceptable to them. It was in a period of uncertainty, political rivalry and turmoil in the Maldives that the British offered Maldives a treaty, which was to become a watershed in Maldivian history. Some Maldivian politicians also needed British co-operation to suit their ambitions.

It was in this atmosphere of instability that the Maldives went into the agreement with British in 1887. The British pledged to protect the Maldives from any foreign aggression while the Maldives in turn agreed not to collaborate with any other foreign power without British consent. The British were also not to interfere with the internal affairs of the Maldives.

Historians differ in their opinions as to the extent of the independence that Maldives enjoyed under the status of a British Protectorate. It was evident that the Maldives was not a colony per se, however the government of the Maldives sought the advice of British Governor in Ceylon on major issues.

Maldives Traditional Dress

The Maldivian culture is rich with flavours from most of the seafarers who set foot on its soil. Traditional dances and music may not be an everyday event but there are occasions where traditional music and dances are performed. Though traditional dresses are not used by present day generation there are many types of traditional dresses made for both sexes.

Like the unique geographical formation, the cultural events and ceremonials are unique according to the event that is celebrated or performed. Naming a newborn child, Bodumaloodhu (a prayer accompanied with festive meal), Eid festival and circumcision of male child are few events that take place where the taste of rich cultural ‘cocktail’ can be experienced. Bodu beru (big drum) performanceis the best-known form of performance of traditional music and dance where females and males participate. Bandiyaa (a dance performed by woman), Thaara (dance performed by male) is among the top traditional music and dances practiced in the Maldive Islands.

Traditional food basically fish used as the main component has been influenced from the Indian subcontinent. Garudhya (tuna soup), spicy curry and rice are the stable food of most of the population. Most other dishes such as western meals like pasta are normally modified with a flavour of tuna in it when prepared for local consumption. Other meats and chicken are normally eaten in special occasions.

Maldives Fishing Boat

The origin of the first settlers of the Maldives still remains a mystery. The historians date early settlers back to 5th century BC with the Aryan immigrants coming from the neighbouring countries India and Sri Lanka. The Maldivian language is said to be Indo-Aryan with influences from Sinhalese, Tamil, Sanskrit, Persian, Urdhu and Arabic. It is believed that Hinduism existed before Buddhism. The Maldivians were practising Buddhism until AD 1153, when a learned scholar converted the king to Islam.

The exact name and origins of this scholar is an ongoing debate. Some are of the opinion that he was a Moroccan traveller named Sheikh. Abul Barakaath Yoosuful Barubaree. Others say that he was from Persia and known as Sheikh Yoosuf Shamsudheenul Thabreyzi. Mr Mohammed Ibrahim Luthufi, an acclaimed contemporary historian and researcher, claims that the name of the person who converted Maldivians to Islam was Sheikh Aburikaab Yoosuf Thabreyzi.

Since the conversion to Islam, the Maldives boasts of a recorded history that is rich and colourful. The system of government was a monarchy with Sultans as sovereigns while Sultanas or queens ruled on rare occasions. Traders from Arabia, India, Sri Lanka and Persia visited the Maldives to exchange goods. Slaves were also brought from Africa. Quite often, sailors were shipwrecked in the treacherous reefs of Maldives. These visitors contributed much to the language and culture of the Maldives. However, the visitors’ influence did not change the identity of the country as a secluded haven virtually unknown to the rest of the world.

Maldives Flora

The sea covers 99% of the Maldives and inside its blue depths lies the mysteries and riddles related to the formation of the Maldives.

The islands are formed around a ring shaped coral reef encircling a lagoon. This reef structure, typical of Maldives, is called an atoll. In fact, the English word ‘atoll’ itself is derived from the Maldivian or dhivehi word for it-atholhu. There are 26 natural atolls in the Maldives.

There are still ongoing debates about the formation of atolls. According to Charles Darwin’s theory, when submerged volcanoes rise from the sea, a coral reef grew on its edge. When the volcanoes submerged, the coral reefs encircling a water-filled basin remained. Consequently, islands were formed on the reefs as the tides and currents brought dead coral onto sandbars. These were in turn colonised by plants.

A different view has been provided by Hans Hass. According to him, layers of coral reefs might have built up on top of the submerged mountains until they rose to the surface. The hardest and highest corals remained while the weaker corals in the center of the coral platforms broke down. The remaining corals at the outer edges formed rings that were to form the outer rims of atolls. Islands were formed as debris and sand accumulated on to the remaining reefs.

The reef is cut by deep channels, which the locals have mastered to navigate. Protective reefs safeguard the islands from the elements. However, the islands are susceptible to erosion. The islands are low-lying; emerging almost two meters above the sea level. It is frequent that one part of the island to erode while onto another part the currents and tides deposit sand expanding the island. Over the course of time, some islands may erode completely, while others may be formed gradually on a sandbank. There are still many islands and sandbanks at various stages of formation. Hence, the Maldives is a dynamic country in the making.

Six inches deep humus forms the initial layers of the soil. Sandstone of about 2 feet is found below and after it sand is accompanied with fresh water. The salinity of the soil along the beach restricts the growth to few plants. Normally, shrubs and small hedges occupy the area. More inwards, banyan, mangroves, screwpine and other lush vegetation are found. For the coconut palms there seems to be no restrictions. It is found almost everywhere and have contributed significantly to the local lifestyle, even earning the status of the national tree.

While vegetation in the islands is limited, it is supplemented by the riches of the sea; varieties of corals, abundant colourful fish and other organisms that makes the Maldives ‘the home of the children of the sea’.

Maldives Island

The Maldives is a nation of coral islands scattered across the Indian Ocean. Geographically, it is located between 72o 32′ 30″ E 73o 45′ 54″ E and 7o 06′ 30″ N to 0o 41′ 48″ S, which puts her just north of the Equator and southwest of the Indian peninsular.

The Maldivian archipelago consists of about 1190 small low-lying coral islands of which few of them are, just a meter above sea level. These islands stretch more than 800 km from north to south covering a total area of about 90,000 square km of which about 99% is water. 200 islands are inhabited while 87 islands are developed as resort islands. The fragile house reefs of these islands act as a barrier of protection from tides and waves. These reefs also contribute to the formation of sand and continuation of the life cycle of the marine species. It also acts as a habitat to thousands of tiny and large organisms.

The former British protectorate that gained independence in 1965 is famous for its splendid white beaches, crystal clear lagoons and peaceful tranquillity of nature’s blessing. This unique creation of nature naturally forms 26 atolls, which for administrative purposes are made into 20 by the government. This small republic was a kingdom before it was declared a republic. The population is estimated 265,000 in 1999. The ethnic origin of the natives is still in debate among scholars and researchers, but it is evident that there is a close resemblance with the South Asian, Southeast Asian, Arabic and African cultures and influence. Maldivians speak in a unique language called dhivehi and have their own transcript thaana for writing.

Maldivian economy was traditionally based on fisheries till the emergence of tourism as its foreign currency generator in the late 20th century. The introduction of tourism to the small island nation transformed the economy from a primary to a tertiary industry-driven economy, making tourism the most dependable industry of the country. Tourism being a service industry has direct and indirect links to all other major and minor industries of the economy. During the last two and half decades the Maldivian way of life has been changing in all aspects keeping pace with economic development. But still the lifeline depends on the sea, which supplies fish as food, sand and coral for housing and land for limited needs and the warm tropical underwater garden as a tourist attraction, which generates the much needed foreign currency.

The tropical climate, white beaches and rich marine environment have made the country a tourist magnet for the past 32 years. The Maldives as the 14th century Moroccan traveller described as “one of the wonders of the world” today is said to be second to none for sun lovers, beach wanderers, scuba divers and those who seek peace in its simplest form.